L eading the way to indulgence, descending ten steps, into the bar. Soles squeal on the fresh black surface, the floor has just be repainted. Deep, dark brown leather chairs await. Right at the back a piano, this boss plays here himself too. Now he reaches for the bottle. Stefan Gabányi pours a whiskey. A Longrow Single Malt. The incidence rate is still too high to welcome guests. So these are the only glasses the host will be filling in his bar in Munich this evening. Indulgence is becoming an endangered way of life. Restaurants, pubs and bars — all long since locked down. For the moment, he’s the homemaker, says Gabányi. The barman is being modest. For 23 years, he worked night after night in the legendary Schumann’s bar in Munich as a recognized whiskey expert. Since 2012, he has been running his own bar, open until five in the morning, when life was normal, with live music once a week. His definitive work “Schumann’s Whisk(e)y Lexicon”, has just been pub- lished, translated into English for the international whiskey aficionados. Gabányi pours, just for nosing. But what does that actually mean: Just for nosing? If the nose doesn’t react to this whiskey, it’s high time for a coronavirus test. “First the peat note,” explains Gabányi. “For some, this is also akin to a medicine, reminiscent of iodine. Then we get the fruit. Cloves too. A touch of salt or pepper...” Dr. Tilman Sauerwald sniffs, concentrating. “There’s a hint of sweetness too,” the expert from the Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging IVV wracks his brains: “Pear?” While ever we are breathing, we can smell. 350 receptor types work around the clock, day and night. No matter whether asleep or awake, scent molecules excite the olfactory cells, produce a current that’s directed through the nerve fibers into the brain, reach the brain areas of the limbic system, responsible for emotion and mood, and the hippocampus, respon- sible for memory and recall. This dedicated circuit makes smelling so immediate — and so difficult for us humans. To express the unfathomable, experts resort to word crutches. Gabányi recounts whiskey tastings in Scotland, where the connoisseurs passionately try to find the best superlatives to describe the bouquet. “Like a wet horse blanket,” he’s even heard. Or even: “This one smells like a seagull’s armpit.” Dr. Tilman Sauerwald takes a different approach. The physicist and expert for gas measurement tech- nology is the Project Manager in the “Campus of the senses”. Under this initiative, sponsored by the Bavar- ian Ministry of Economic Affairs, Regional Develop- ment and Energy, experts from Fraunhofer IVV and 1 | 21 Fraunhofer magazine the Fraunhofer Institute for Integrated Circuits IIS, working in cooperation with the Friedrich-Alexan- der-Universität Erlangen-Nürnberg, are researching the sense of smell and taste — and are planning to translate these chemosensory perceptions into machine and digital concepts. Together with his team, Sauer- wald chose whiskey as the research subject. As a scientist, he is fascinated by the diversity, the wealth of variants, the complexity. 350 receptor types work 24 hours, day and night. These are the aromas that people like in a whiskey: pear and citrus, ginger and mint. “You have your work cut out there!”, says Gabányi in amazement. “A very complex task indeed,” agrees Sauerwald. In his bar, the whiskey man explains the diversity of aromas. “The water, that’s very important!”, says Gabányi. As an example, he describes Islay, the Heb- rides island battered by storms and famous for the most Scottish of all Scottish whiskeys. The island is covered in peat, which turns the water pale yellow — and alters its taste. This increases the whiskey’s phenol content. Ten ppm in the malt creates a slightly smoky taste, 40 ppm and upwards make it a concoc- tion for specialists. Gabányi also talks about the Scottish pot stills, which would be too impure for German distillers. Precisely why they are able to impart more complex aromas. Then he turns to the casks, for many experts quite simply “the mother of the whiskey”, because this is where 60 to 80 percent of the aroma 39 600 pages of palatable reading for connoisseurs. The English version has just been published.